Feltner Brothers: Chicago-style dogs certain to please the purist | OU Review

Feltner Brothers

500 W. Spring St.
Fayetteville, Arkansas
Tel: (479) 966-4488
Twitter: Feltner Brothers

Click here for a menu

Final score: 4 out of 5 sport peppers

By Christopher Spencer

Had a chance to swing by the new Feltner Brothers restaurant on a recent Saturday.

My wife is an avid fan of hot dogs, mostly of the bratwurst variety, so we knew we needed to give Fayetteville’s newest and only Chicago-style hot dog joint a try.

A random shake of the Urban Spoon app on my iPhone first alerted me to the place a few days before we went. The name caught my eye again when I noticed Chris Bray from the Zen and Juice blog praising the place’s price and taste on Facebook.

Feltner Brothers is hidden in a small outcropping of shops at the eastern end of West Spring Street, near the Flying Burrito Company.

It’s a small, narrow place with about eight tables and space on the walls for additional bench seating. The place gives off a serious sports bar vibe, with televisions high on the walls in every direction, mixed with the rapid customer turn over a quick-eat grill.

We didn’t check out the patio on that blustery cold day, but during early summer with a chilled lager and a hot dog, it seemed like it might be a good place to waste some hours.

The place was packed when we arrived about 1:30 p.m. that Saturday. Some folks did appear dug in at their tables, sipping beers and laughing as they casually ate burgers or hot dogs but most patrons seemed to be there only as long as it took to eat.

Luckily, during the few minutes it took us to order at the counter, a table cleared and we quickly jumped at the chance to sit down. Those waiting in line behind us were not so lucky.

The service was friendly and quick. We both ordered the Chicago-style Frank for $3.25. I also ordered Frito Pie ($3.50) and my wife wanted to try the onion rings ($2.25).

This seems like the appropriate moment to mention I know nothing of Chicago’s hot dog history. I hear it’s rich and deep and the use of ketchup on a hot dog can lead to fisticuffs.

I have to say it was a top-notch hot dog. None of that factory-flavor from a common Oscar Meyer, this dog had the natural casing that makes a slight snap when you bite into it.

The poppy seed bun and the condiments – tomato wedges, lettuce, sports pepper, chopped onions, a dill pickle and mustard – create a surprising harmony of flavors with each bite. A little tang, some heat. Cold lettuce and a hot dog. While it’s not something I find myself craving, it’s a symphony worth sampling.

I’m sure if you’re a Chicago-transplant eager to get a taste of home, then you’ve found your Mecca at Feltner Brothers.

The onion rings were serviceable, but certainly of the pre-battered and frozen variety. They did what was required of them flavor-wise, but nothing more.

The Frito Pie was surprisingly delicious. The chili was thick and tasty – strangely, I didn’t see a chili-cheese dog offered on the menu – with some grated cheese over the crunchy Fritos. Some raw chopped onion on top of the pie would have sealed the deal for me. Unfortunately, they were absent.

I’m curious to sample their burgers. They looked sizable and home-made. Always a tasty plus.

The restaurant has been open for a few months now and seems to have developed fast and efficient service.

Fayetteville doesn’t really have a “hot dog” place so in these lean months when too many restaurants are closing, hopefully that niche may be enough to bring success to the brothers.

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